Shelagh’s Edinburgh guidebook

Shelagh
Shelagh’s Edinburgh guidebook

Sightseeing

Holyrood Park and the foot of Arthur's Seat is 15-20 minutes walk from our home. The view from the top is magnificent and there are plenty of routes to the top - steep and not so steep.
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Arthur's Seat
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Holyrood Park and the foot of Arthur's Seat is 15-20 minutes walk from our home. The view from the top is magnificent and there are plenty of routes to the top - steep and not so steep.
15 minutes walk from here. Interesting glimpse into Scottish and royal history & lovely gardens.
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Palacio de Holyroodhouse
Canongate
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15 minutes walk from here. Interesting glimpse into Scottish and royal history & lovely gardens.
See how the other half sail. Leith is a really interesting area and if you are into modern Royal history a visit to the yacht is a real treat.
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Yate Real Britannia
Ocean Drive
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See how the other half sail. Leith is a really interesting area and if you are into modern Royal history a visit to the yacht is a real treat.
Ancient and modern history of Scotland spanning nature to politics. Vast collection - start at the top and work your way down if you prefer recent history (as I do) as you will need a lot of time to enjoy it all. 30 minutes walk from here.
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National Museum of Scotland
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Ancient and modern history of Scotland spanning nature to politics. Vast collection - start at the top and work your way down if you prefer recent history (as I do) as you will need a lot of time to enjoy it all. 30 minutes walk from here.
The Royal Mile starts just 15 minutes walk from our home and leads you right up to the craggy rocks which form the dramatic setting for Edinburgh Castle. You can walk the whole route in 40 minutes except during the Edinburgh Festival when the crowds and street performers will definitely slow you down.
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Castillo de Edimburgo
Castlehill
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The Royal Mile starts just 15 minutes walk from our home and leads you right up to the craggy rocks which form the dramatic setting for Edinburgh Castle. You can walk the whole route in 40 minutes except during the Edinburgh Festival when the crowds and street performers will definitely slow you down.
Find out how people could watch the world go by before CCTV. The old camera obscura is a fascinating experience enjoyable for children and adults.
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Camera Obscura y Mundo de las Ilusiones
549 Castlehill
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Find out how people could watch the world go by before CCTV. The old camera obscura is a fascinating experience enjoyable for children and adults.
Shorter climb than Arthur's Seat but offer great views across Edinburgh and some interesting buildings/monuments.
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Colina Calton
Calton Hill
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Shorter climb than Arthur's Seat but offer great views across Edinburgh and some interesting buildings/monuments.
Free to visit . A lovely walk on a sunny day with warm tropical glasshouses when the weather is more typically Scottish. Regular special exhibitions, indoor and outdoor cafes and a must if you love trees and plants.
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Jardín Botánico Real de Edimburgo
Arboretum Place
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Free to visit . A lovely walk on a sunny day with warm tropical glasshouses when the weather is more typically Scottish. Regular special exhibitions, indoor and outdoor cafes and a must if you love trees and plants.
Great for families. Interesting geological themed exhibitions and only 20 minutes from our home. Handy cafe if you are in the area.
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Dynamic Earth
Holyrood Road
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Great for families. Interesting geological themed exhibitions and only 20 minutes from our home. Handy cafe if you are in the area.
This is on the Royal Mile (also called High Street) and just 20 minutes away from our home. Very interesting displays - the toys are both historically interesting and nostalgic for older adults! Check opening times as things have changed since covid-19. https://www.edinburghmuseums.org.uk/venue/museum-childhood
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Museum of Childhood
42 High St
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This is on the Royal Mile (also called High Street) and just 20 minutes away from our home. Very interesting displays - the toys are both historically interesting and nostalgic for older adults! Check opening times as things have changed since covid-19. https://www.edinburghmuseums.org.uk/venue/museum-childhood
The gardens are a lovely green space alongside our busiest and least exciting shopping street. Has been a bit spoiled by overuse during the Christmas Market but still a great place to relax and have a city centre picnic.
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Princes Street
Princes Street
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The gardens are a lovely green space alongside our busiest and least exciting shopping street. Has been a bit spoiled by overuse during the Christmas Market but still a great place to relax and have a city centre picnic.
You can have a great time just wandering around the streets of Edinburgh's Old Town - keep an eye open for the many ancient narrow streets (often called "close" or "wynd") and steps which take you past many ancient buildings and secret gardens. Edinburgh's Old Town is still very much a residential area. There are guided tours but if you are on a budget just get a free map from the Tourist Information Office and walk around. It feels a little intimidating at night but is a very safe area. Personal favourites are Dunbar's Close Gardens off Canongate, Sandeman Garden (owned by the Scottish Book trust) in Trunk's Close off the Royal Mile and the Miss Jean Brodie Steps which lead up from Grassmarket and offer a fantastic view of the Castle.
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Edinburgh Old Town
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You can have a great time just wandering around the streets of Edinburgh's Old Town - keep an eye open for the many ancient narrow streets (often called "close" or "wynd") and steps which take you past many ancient buildings and secret gardens. Edinburgh's Old Town is still very much a residential area. There are guided tours but if you are on a budget just get a free map from the Tourist Information Office and walk around. It feels a little intimidating at night but is a very safe area. Personal favourites are Dunbar's Close Gardens off Canongate, Sandeman Garden (owned by the Scottish Book trust) in Trunk's Close off the Royal Mile and the Miss Jean Brodie Steps which lead up from Grassmarket and offer a fantastic view of the Castle.
Guided tours starting here offer a really interesting way to spend a couple of hours finding out about the Old Town's fascinating history.
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The Real Mary King's Close
2 High St
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Guided tours starting here offer a really interesting way to spend a couple of hours finding out about the Old Town's fascinating history.
Lovely house highlighting Edinburgh's New Town history.
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Casa Georgiana
7 Charlotte Square
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Lovely house highlighting Edinburgh's New Town history.
You can reach the Eastern part of the Water of Leith within 15 minutes from our house and walk all the way along through the city or take a bus to the West End and access the walk from Dean Village or the Gallery of Modern Art . A circular walk crossing this river can offer you a glimpse of kingfishers, otters and many small birds. See if you can spot the Anthony Gormley statue close to the bridge at Powderhall. The Water of Leith runs through Stockbridge which is a lovely part of Edinburgh with lots of independent shops and cafes and a Sunday market.
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Water of Leith Walkway
Water of Leith Walkway
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You can reach the Eastern part of the Water of Leith within 15 minutes from our house and walk all the way along through the city or take a bus to the West End and access the walk from Dean Village or the Gallery of Modern Art . A circular walk crossing this river can offer you a glimpse of kingfishers, otters and many small birds. See if you can spot the Anthony Gormley statue close to the bridge at Powderhall. The Water of Leith runs through Stockbridge which is a lovely part of Edinburgh with lots of independent shops and cafes and a Sunday market.

Arts & Culture

Great temporary exhibitions and a vast collection.
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Galerías Nacionales de Escocia
The Mound
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Great temporary exhibitions and a vast collection.
We love this place. Great cafe and excellent collection. Lots of well-known Scottish public figures are captured in the portraits on display and the special exhibitions are always worth a view.
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Scottish National Portrait Gallery
1 Queen St
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We love this place. Great cafe and excellent collection. Lots of well-known Scottish public figures are captured in the portraits on display and the special exhibitions are always worth a view.
Controversial building in many ways but I love the architecture. Tours can be booked and there is easy access to the public gallery to watch parliamentarians at work when Parliament is sitting. You can walk there in 20 minutes but look at the Scottish Parliament website first for up to date advice on opening hours and arrangements for visits and tours.
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Scottish Parliament Building
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Controversial building in many ways but I love the architecture. Tours can be booked and there is easy access to the public gallery to watch parliamentarians at work when Parliament is sitting. You can walk there in 20 minutes but look at the Scottish Parliament website first for up to date advice on opening hours and arrangements for visits and tours.
Fantastic location near the Water of Leith. Easily accessible by bus from our home and near the lovely West End which has great independent shops and cafes. Good collection and great temporary exhibitions. Cafe has a gorgeous garden and is often praised for its food.
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Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art
75 Belford Rd
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Fantastic location near the Water of Leith. Easily accessible by bus from our home and near the lovely West End which has great independent shops and cafes. Good collection and great temporary exhibitions. Cafe has a gorgeous garden and is often praised for its food.
Edinburgh has a strong tradition of invention and medical education. This museum tells that story and offers some grisly evidence of what healthcare was like before we had great drugs and the NHS.
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Museos de la Sala de Cirujanos
Nicolson Street
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Edinburgh has a strong tradition of invention and medical education. This museum tells that story and offers some grisly evidence of what healthcare was like before we had great drugs and the NHS.
An Old Town gem tucked away near the Parliament building. Bookshop and exhibitions and, before covid-19, poetry performances and readings. Perfect if you want to know more about Scotland's poets or buy a special gift for a poetry loving friend.
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Scottish Poetry Library
5 Crichton's Cl
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An Old Town gem tucked away near the Parliament building. Bookshop and exhibitions and, before covid-19, poetry performances and readings. Perfect if you want to know more about Scotland's poets or buy a special gift for a poetry loving friend.
Beautiful textiles focused exhibitions and great cafe. Good for buying handcrafted gifts. You can also watch tapestry makers at work from the gallery around lunchtime each day. There is no entry fee for that.
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Dovecot Studios
10 Infirmary St
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Beautiful textiles focused exhibitions and great cafe. Good for buying handcrafted gifts. You can also watch tapestry makers at work from the gallery around lunchtime each day. There is no entry fee for that.

Food scene

Great for brunch/lunch/dinner - seats inside and outdoors in lovely garden. Not sure if bookings needed under new post-lockdown rules so take a look at gardenerscottage.co.uk
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The Gardener's Cottage
1 London Road
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Great for brunch/lunch/dinner - seats inside and outdoors in lovely garden. Not sure if bookings needed under new post-lockdown rules so take a look at gardenerscottage.co.uk
Great for breakfast/lunch/brunch. About 20 minutes walk from our house. Booking might be necessary: edinburghlarder.co.uk I really love their food and they do local and sustainable food very well.
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The Edinburgh Larder
15 Blackfriars St
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Great for breakfast/lunch/brunch. About 20 minutes walk from our house. Booking might be necessary: edinburghlarder.co.uk I really love their food and they do local and sustainable food very well.
Good for basic pub food and local beers.
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The Mash Tun Bier House & Kitchen
154 Easter Rd
106 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Good for basic pub food and local beers.
Busy pub with vast range of beers and wines. Good pub food - burgers are a speciality, has always offered table service, Can be very busy but always a good buzzy place.
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The Holyrood 9A
9a Holyrood Rd
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Busy pub with vast range of beers and wines. Good pub food - burgers are a speciality, has always offered table service, Can be very busy but always a good buzzy place.
Modern Mexican food like the Wahaca chain but better. Good for a light meal or a big blow out andserves great cocktails too.
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Bodega - Leith
14-15 Albert Pl
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Modern Mexican food like the Wahaca chain but better. Good for a light meal or a big blow out andserves great cocktails too.
Always delicious but booking necessary. Modern food and great cocktails.
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Forage & Chatter
1A Alva St
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Always delicious but booking necessary. Modern food and great cocktails.
Lovely cafe with a sister branch in Morrison Street near Haymarket station. Good fresh soups, salads and sandwiches with great ingredients.
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Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop
21 Hawthornvale
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Lovely cafe with a sister branch in Morrison Street near Haymarket station. Good fresh soups, salads and sandwiches with great ingredients.
High end eating in some style. Not sure how chef Tom Kitchin is handling this part of his restaurant business since lockdown but it is open and we absolutely love his food. The set lunch is a huge bargain compared with the a la carte evening menu. The quality is unbeatable so book ahead if you want to enjoy a very special experience here.
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The Kitchin
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High end eating in some style. Not sure how chef Tom Kitchin is handling this part of his restaurant business since lockdown but it is open and we absolutely love his food. The set lunch is a huge bargain compared with the a la carte evening menu. The quality is unbeatable so book ahead if you want to enjoy a very special experience here.
Reliable quality in a nearby location - this is always a great place for lunch and dinner. Good quality, feels special but not as expensive as many of the top name, Michelin starred places. Small rooms so check booking system as social distancing will have changed things here.
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Wedgwood The Restaurant
267 Royal Mile
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Reliable quality in a nearby location - this is always a great place for lunch and dinner. Good quality, feels special but not as expensive as many of the top name, Michelin starred places. Small rooms so check booking system as social distancing will have changed things here.
Not a great atmosphere but there are some really good food places on the upper floors - personal favourites are Pho (Vietnamese) and Ka Pao which does brilliant SE Asian food. There is also a food court, burger places and the Everyman Cinema which also serves food.
St James Quarter
Not a great atmosphere but there are some really good food places on the upper floors - personal favourites are Pho (Vietnamese) and Ka Pao which does brilliant SE Asian food. There is also a food court, burger places and the Everyman Cinema which also serves food.
Mediterranean style menu. Good for lunch or dinner.
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The Olive Branch
91 Broughton St
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Mediterranean style menu. Good for lunch or dinner.
Delicious Thai food. Booking advisable.
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Dusit
49A Thistle St
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Delicious Thai food. Booking advisable.
Fine dining (currently approx £65 for three courses or £95 for tasting menu). Very highly recommended. Unusual cocktails. Very friendly staff and the food is wonderful. Booking usually necessary. They also offer a very good value lunch menu. Recently awarded a Michelin star.
Heron
Fine dining (currently approx £65 for three courses or £95 for tasting menu). Very highly recommended. Unusual cocktails. Very friendly staff and the food is wonderful. Booking usually necessary. They also offer a very good value lunch menu. Recently awarded a Michelin star.
Polish cuisine which comes in big portions and has locals enthusing about the quality. I've not eaten there yet but never heard a bad word.
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The Percy
398 Easter Rd
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Polish cuisine which comes in big portions and has locals enthusing about the quality. I've not eaten there yet but never heard a bad word.
Nepalese and highly recommended although I've not tried it yet.
Solti
Nepalese and highly recommended although I've not tried it yet.
Highly recommended by friends and about 5 minutes from our house. Ashamed to say we have not tried this Nepalese place. Sister restaurant to Solti.
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Gautam's
13-14 Dalziel Pl
11 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Highly recommended by friends and about 5 minutes from our house. Ashamed to say we have not tried this Nepalese place. Sister restaurant to Solti.

Favourite vegan/veggie eating places

Food has varied over the years with different chefs but it is a stylish place offering reliable quality and usually very good service. Just 20 minutes walk from our house.
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David Bann Restaurant
56-58 St Mary's St
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Food has varied over the years with different chefs but it is a stylish place offering reliable quality and usually very good service. Just 20 minutes walk from our house.
Lovely little cafe which is good for brunch/lunch or afternoon tea. Close to the bus station.
11 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Holy Cow
34 Elder St
11 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Lovely little cafe which is good for brunch/lunch or afternoon tea. Close to the bus station.
Reeser Str. 106, 46446 Emmerich am Rhein, Alemania
Good vegan food and drinks.
Great coffee and vegan food. Has started opening some evenings but I've only visited for lunch.
Plant Bae
220 Haymarket Terrace
Great coffee and vegan food. Has started opening some evenings but I've only visited for lunch.
Never tried this but repeatedly well-reviewed. Friends tell me it is a really good place for veggie/vegan pizza and other Italian style food.
Novapizza
Never tried this but repeatedly well-reviewed. Friends tell me it is a really good place for veggie/vegan pizza and other Italian style food.

Good Scottish food

Modern version of traditional Scottish food. Affordable and good quality. Get your haggis and skirlie here - veggie haggis also served.
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Makars Gourmet Mash Bar (Mound)
9-12 Bank St
22 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Modern version of traditional Scottish food. Affordable and good quality. Get your haggis and skirlie here - veggie haggis also served.
A tiny place so it is wise to check how they are managing to stay open with social distancing rules. (arcadepub.co.uk) . Offers single malt whiskies from right across Scotland, haggis, neeps and tatties and all sorts of traditional Scottish foods.
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Arcade Bar
48 Cockburn St
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A tiny place so it is wise to check how they are managing to stay open with social distancing rules. (arcadepub.co.uk) . Offers single malt whiskies from right across Scotland, haggis, neeps and tatties and all sorts of traditional Scottish foods.
More traditional food - but also haggis fritters. This places is famous for its traditional Scottish breakfast. I've never tried it but lots of visitors love it.
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The Royal McGregor
154 High St
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More traditional food - but also haggis fritters. This places is famous for its traditional Scottish breakfast. I've never tried it but lots of visitors love it.
Upmarket and fairly expensive but a lovely dining space and lots of whiskies on offer as well as a modern version of traditional Scottish food and local ingredients.
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Amber Restaurant
354 Castlehill
11 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Upmarket and fairly expensive but a lovely dining space and lots of whiskies on offer as well as a modern version of traditional Scottish food and local ingredients.
Haven't eaten here for a long time but has a very good reputation for its Scottish themed menus.
23 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Stac Polly
29-33 Dublin St
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Haven't eaten here for a long time but has a very good reputation for its Scottish themed menus.
Focuses on using Scottish produce and offers a modern take on traditional Scottish food. Sister branch in Victoria Street. Have eaten well at both branches.
Howies Restaurant
Focuses on using Scottish produce and offers a modern take on traditional Scottish food. Sister branch in Victoria Street. Have eaten well at both branches.

Breakfast/Brunch

Great bakery - pastries, cake, soups, sandwiches and coffee to takeaway.
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Polentoni
38 Easter Rd
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Great bakery - pastries, cake, soups, sandwiches and coffee to takeaway.
Artisan bakers on Easter Road serving great takeaway coffee, bread and pastries and now has eat-in option.
14 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Twelve Triangles bakery & provisions
22-24 Easter Rd
14 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Artisan bakers on Easter Road serving great takeaway coffee, bread and pastries and now has eat-in option.
Queues in the morning indicate the popularity of their great coffee. Also takeaway pastries, cakes and savoury snacks.
24 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Little Fitzroy Coffee
46 Easter Rd
24 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Queues in the morning indicate the popularity of their great coffee. Also takeaway pastries, cakes and savoury snacks.
Good for breakfast/brunch/lunch. Great coffee, pastries and cakes. Homemade soups and salads are always delicious. 5 minutes walk from our home
107 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Red Kite Cafe
7-8 Cadzow Pl
107 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Good for breakfast/brunch/lunch. Great coffee, pastries and cakes. Homemade soups and salads are always delicious. 5 minutes walk from our home

Consejos para la ciudad

Facilidad para moverse por la casa

Walk, cycle or take a bus to cross Edinburgh quickly

Edinburgh's narrow cobbled streets and new traffic-free neighbourhoods make driving the least good option. Our buses are brilliant - you can tap and pay using debit cards and prices are capped per day no matter how many journeys you make. Bus maps available on-line from Lothian Bus or from Tourist Information. Cycle hire is possible but mind the hills - some of them are very challenging for the less fit cyclist. Walking - it only takes 30 minutes to reach the city centre from our home and then 15 - 20 minutes to the West side of the city. Comfortable shoes are the ideal accessory!
Qué debes empacar

Bring warm clothes and comfortable shoes

Scottish weather is famous for bringing four seasons in one day. Layers of clothing are your guarantee of the best Edinburgh experience - bring a waterproof (umbrellas do not work well in our windy city), a warm top, a sun hat and comfortable shoes to cope with the cobbled streets and lovely open, grassy spaces.
Formas de ahorrar

Saving money on food and drink

Drinking and eating cheaply in Edinburgh is difficult. Buy from small shops/supermarkets or choose cafes away from the main tourist routes and seek out late afternoon and early evening deals on food and drink. The university area is not cheap, especially when street food outlets arrive to service the festival but smaller less stylish looking places such as some Asian restaurants in that area do offer good value.